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Southeast asia with toddlers: Slower, weirder, louder

A slow-travel guide for families who want the real adventure — rural villages, good food, reefs to snorkel, wind to ride — minus the meltdowns. (Okay, plus a few meltdowns. We'll be honest about those too.)

Who's writing this? 

We're a swiss family of four, currently at the start of a slow trip across Southeast Asia — Bali, then Taiwan, then Malaysia, with China, Vietnam and Thailand still ahead. We're homeschooling our four-year-old on the road, while our two-year-old has quietly declared war on public spaces: every café, restaurant and taxi is now a private opera hall, and one shopping-mall hippo mascot has already been struck, unprovoked, in what we can only assume was a diplomatic disagreement. 

WHAT YOU'LL FIND HERE

Real Places, Not Instagram Bait
Rural stays, proper local food, towns that exist for reasons other than the photo. If a place is famous only for its swing, we probably skipped it.

Adventure, Small-Human Edition
Snorkelling, kitesurfing, jungle treks — the stuff you assumed was over the day you had kids. It isn't. Our four-year-old took a two-metre wave straight to the face mid-snorkel and asked to go back in five minutes later. The kitesurfing wipeouts, on the other hand, were ours, and did not go over nearly as well.

A Few Words Go a Long Way
We learn "hello," "thank you" and "sorry" in every language before we learn anything else — in that order, and loudly enough to mean it. Respecting the place you're in isn't optional scenery. It's most of the point. 

Slow Enough to Actually Enjoy It
No fourteen-country sprint. We stay long enough to find the good noodle stall, wrap a full nappy and place in our bag, find the nappy 3 days later, and still leave on good terms with the country.

THE NUMBERS SO FAR

  • 1 supermarket hippo mascot, struck in stomach by a two-year old
  • 1 speedboat luggage exchange mid-ocean
  • 2 turtles and 1 manta ray spotting from the sea
  • 1 case of impressively poorly-timed digestive distress, mid-snorkel, details best left to the current
  • 4 new toddler foods unlocked: satay sticks, pisang goring (fried bananas), dragon fruit and mangosteen